Improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes



UNITED STATES PATENT OEEIOE.

wILLIAM KEATs ANI) JOHN KEATs, OE STREET, ENGLAND.

IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES. t

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 72,048, dated December 10, 1867; patented in England, April 14, 1863.

To all whom 'it may concern:

Be it known that we, WILLIAM KEATs and JOHN KEATs, both of Street, in the county of Somerset, England, subjects of the Queen of Great Britain, have invented or discovered new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, or other Coverings for the Feet; and iwe, the said WILLIAM KEATs and JOHN KEATs, do herebydeclare the nature of the said invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereofthat is to say:

This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes, or other coverings for the feet.

III manufacturing boots, shoes, or other coverings for the feet according to this invention, the edge of the sole has a strip cut from its under side all round its edge, so as to leave all round the upper edge of the sole a strip of less thickness than the rest of the sole. To this thin strip the edge of the upper, previously cut to the required shape, :is sewed, the outer face of the upper being t0- ward the outer face of the sole. The upper and sole are then turned inside out. The boot or other covering for the feet may then be iinished as though the upper had been connected to the sole in the usual way. In addition to the sole being cut as above described, so as to leave a thin strip around its edge, we prefer to enlarge the strip by cutting, with a suitable tool, a slit into the edge of the sole, just below the bottom or under side of the strip.

Referring to the drawings, Figure l is a section of a sole prepared according to the method described. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same in course of preparation. Fig. 3 is a cross-section, showing the sole and the upper as first connected together; and Fig. 4 is a cross-section of the same when turned inside out. Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation of a boot when completed.

In order to cut the sole in the manner shown at Figs. l and 2, we prefer to proceed as follows: The sole, which has first been cut to the required shape, is moved past two stationary knives, one of which forms the slit into the edge ofthe sole, and the other makes a out at right angles thereto, and severs off a strip, c, as seen at Fig. 2, thus leaving a thin strip, D, all round the edge of the sole. The strip C is taken off from the grain side of the leather.

In order to move the edge of the sole past the cutters, and to insure the edge being properly cut by them, the edge of the sole is by hand held against a stop that projects up from a table on which the sole rests. This stop is arranged to carry the cutter that makes the slit into the edge of the sole. p Close to this cutter, and above the so1e,` is a spring or presser, that presses down the sole onto the table. Pressing on the upper surface of the sole is also a revolvingserrated wheel, by

which the sole is moved forward past the cutters; and as the sole is so moved past the cutters; the edge of the sole is, as before mentioned, kept by hand against the stop. When the sole has thus been brought to the requisite shape, the strip D, that is left all round it, is connected by sewing to the outer edge of an upper, B, that has first been cut to the requisite shape.

In order to obtain a suitable pattern from which to out out what is knownpas the base7 of the upper, we :first stretch canvas or other material, that is first cut nearly to the requisite shape, over` a last of the form of the boot to be made. The canvas stretched over the last is cut around the last, leaving a suicient margin for the seam. Two pieces of canvas, one for each side of the boot, are thus shaped. From these pieces of canvas patterns of like form are constructed, the patterns being, by preference, made of sheet metal. The leather or other material which is to form the base of the upper is out to the shape of these metal patterns, and the two parts of the base are connected together, and upon them are also applied covering-pieces of leather, which are to form the outer surface ofthe upper, as is usual. The outer edge of the upper so prepared is connected to the sole by sewing, as above described. The upper and sole are then turned inside out. The heel of the boot may then be formed by pegging or riveting on lifts and top pieces, as shown at K, Fig. 5. A stiffener,

H, may also be inserted between the base and l the outer portions of the upper before turning the boot inside out, and after the boot has been turned inside Out the stiffener is seemed. by rivets, as at I.

is to stty, with the Soie out at the edge, and seWed to the edge of the upper While turned Outward, substantially es described.

WILLIAM KEATs. JOHN KEATs.

Witnesses:

THOMAs GREENWOOD, FRANK BACON GREY. 

